Low tire pressure indicator kept coming on - but it then disappeared after this !

If you all have been following this blog at all or read the initial post about the TPMS (Tire Pressure Monitoring Sensor) you'll know how frustrated i felt that when I filled the tires to the recommended 33 PSI, and drove above 20 MPH , the TPMS light still didn't turn off on the Nissan Rogue 2009.

Additionally, I also noticed across the web how a lot of people mentioned replacing the TPMS as an option. At that time I didn't feel that it was worth the hassle to order the factory-original parts and pay for labor cost to replace one or more of the TPMS monitors (one per wheel).


Well recently I decided to get a general inspection done at the Nissan Service center, and as part of the process they apparently reset the "clock" on the onboard computer after diagnostic-pass. When I got the car back, to my big surprise the TMPS warning light was off...and stayed off!!

Turns out that the service center mechanic while doing his 25  point inspection, filled up the tires to about 37 PSI, and reset the clock (which I have done myself before). And BOOM, no TPMS low tire sensor light. ever.


Whod'a thunk?

Lemme tell ya, having no lights on in the dash sure is a thing of beaty :-)

VDC OFF and SLIP lights on - installing a new steering angle sensor (part 47945-JD00A)

Well my friends, someone here no longer sees the VDC OFF and SLIP ON lights after ignition. Steering angle sensor is now replaced successfully!

Here's the sensor box from factory. it cost somewhere between 2~300.

Opening the box, we find the sensor part. As you can see, it pretty much aligns with the steering portion, indicating that the steering wheel has to be removed in order to install this piece

One one side we can see theres the port for an interface wire, which probably connects to power + central computer unit of the car, feeding information to the VDC unit like steering rate of turn, direction, etc.

The whole installation can be done by one person in around 45 minutes. Unfortunately, couldn't stick around to take pictures of the installation, but what can you do, can't have it all I suppose.


The good news is ... right after the install was done, and the sensor reprogrammed with the centered steering wheel (same idea as zeroing a weighted scale), the problem was solved.

Now after ignition and wheel turn, the VDC startup sequence no longer detects an error from the wheel angle sensor and it no longer shuts down the VDC /ABS.

The mechanic did mention that in some very rare cases if the problem still persisted, it might be because the wheel was misaligned and therefore the wheel alignment would be necessary. Clearly not required in this case. But still sharing that tidbit in case it helps you.

I found this whole experience very interesting although slightly costly, if you have any questions let me know Id be happy to help if i can.

Time to take some highway ramps at high speed :-)

VDC OFF and SLIP lights on - using the Nissan Service center diagnostic to determine root cause

Good news and bad news!

GOOD NEWS:

 the reason why the VDC OFF and SLIP ON lights are coming on...are for what i suspected it to be (check out the last article to see a list of possible suspects I tried to eliminate, your case might be something simpler like one of the  brake lights is out... )

BAD NEWS

 being right meant I had to fork over some cash to get the system diagnosedby the Nissan Service center . Here is that tool that the mechanic used. Doesn't look much different from a regular reader, except it could read codes that my OBDII reader couldnt. Whats surprising is that according to Nissan tech manuals, the OBCII should have been able to read the code C1143 (steering angle sensor circuit is open), but for whatever reason, mine failed to find any problems. Anyways heres an image of the tool the guy used:

I wonder whether I should upgrade the software Im using with my OBDII interface cable. Could be that. I'll look into this more later.


RECAP - The SYMPTOMS:

1) Ignition on
2) Turn steering wheel
3) VDC system disengages with a whirring noise
4) the VDC OFF and SLIP ON lights come on simultaneously.

So turns out... it was a STEERING ANGLE SENSOR issue after all. For whatever reason (maybe misfiring, maybe worn out, maybe ... whatever) this sensor is not working, its located (as the name implies) by the steering wheel, and reads when the steering wheel is turned, what rate is the turn, etc. Essentially, this feeds information to the VDC system to control individual wheel braking to bring vehicle under control when wheelspin or slip is detected. Normally the chances of this happening are higher when the road is slippery (rain, ice) and you are applying quick acceleration with a turn (changing lanes high speed, accelerating onto highway off of ramp).

As I mentioned earlier, Ive been driving carefully to avoid these two conditions, but after a while you want to just drive without paying so much attention, so Ive decided to get this fixed.

THE FIX - THE CO$T

I have to get the part ordered from the Service center. Here's a picture of the part number if you want to look up the price and availability for yourself. Thats $ right there.

Then , Ive got to pay for installation labor - which requires some form of steering wheel dismantling. Another bunch of $ there.

Finally, with a new sensor install, I'm going to need a wheel alignment.The service center will charge another bunch of $ there. Looks like i didn't need a wheel alignment after all

SAVING MONEY:

1. Find someone with access to or get yourself access to a Consult III tool, or some software thats not crap for OBDII code reads -  this will help you determine the real problem without forking money over for diagnostic to the service center 
2. See if you can find the sensor part cheaper . I havent figured out how to do this yet
3. Find someone who can do sensor installs cheaper - i may have found someone to help me with this KA CHING
4. Learn to do wheel alignments or find someone who can do this cheaper - its really just a matter of connecting the tool and aligning the wheel straight and reprogramming. How sad is that? Don't need this after all.. at least not for this job.

I'll report back once these upgrades are complete.

VDC OFF and SLIP lights on - Reading the ABS related DTCs from the right control module

This will be updated once I figure out how to read the codes off of the car using my laptop. I am not entirely sure that my OBD II software will work with this particular type of diagnostic code.


Well scratch that idea - looks like I wont be able to pull the ABS/VDC related diagnostic codes using a regular reader. The reason for this is because the codes are stored on the ABS control unit, which is a different control unit than the regular control unit that these OBD 2 softwares usually read. 
An interesting point: But ABS once there are codes stored, they remain there till cleared.

There is however a manual way to get the car to show you the ABS codes. This is off of the internet, so I will hold off on trying it myself, but incase you want to give it a shot:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

When a problem occurs in the ABS, the warning lamp on the instrument panel comes on. To start the selfdiagnostic results mode, ground the self-diagnostic (check) terminal located on Data Link Connector. The location of the malfunction is indicated by the warning lamp flashing.

SELF-DIAGNOSIS PROCEDURE
1. Drive vehicle over 30 km/h (19 MPH) for at least one minute.
2. Turn ignition switch OFF.
3. Ground terminal 9 of Data Link Connector with a suitable harness.
4. Turn ignition switch ON while grounding terminal 9.
Do not depress brake pedal.
5. After 3.0 seconds, the warning lamp starts flashing to indicate
the malfunction code No. (See NOTE.)
6. Verify the location of the malfunction with the malfunction code
chart. Then make the necessary repairs following the diagnostic procedures.
7. After the malfunctions are repaired, erase the malfunction codes
stored in the control unit. See Below
8. Rerun the self-diagnostic results mode to verify that the malfunction
codes have been erased.
9. Disconnect the check terminal from the ground. The self-diagnostic
results mode is now complete.
10. Check warning lamp for deactivation after driving vehicle over 30
km/h (19 MPH) for at least one minute.
11. After making certain that warning lamp does not come on, test
the ABS in a safe area to verify that it functions properly.
NOTE:
The indication terminates after 5 minutes.
However, when the ignition switch is turned from OFF to ON, the
indication starts flashing again.

HOW TO READ SELF-DIAGNOSTIC RESULTS (MALFUNCTION CODES)
1. Determine the code No. by counting the number of times the warning lamp flashes on and off.
2. When several malfunctions occur at one time, up to three code numbers can be stored; the latest malfunction
will be indicated first.
3. The indication begins with the start code 12. After that a maximum of three code numbers appear in the
order of the latest one first. The indication then returns to the start code 12 to repeat (the indication will
stay on for five minutes at most).

HOW TO ERASE SELF-DIAGNOSTIC RESULTS (MALFUNCTION CODES)
1. Disconnect the check terminal from ground (ABS warning lamp
will stay lit).
2. Within 12.5 seconds, ground the check terminal three times.
Each terminal ground must last more than 1 second. The ABS
warning lamp goes out after the erase operation has been completed.
3. Perform self-diagnosis again. Only the start code should appear, no
malfunction codes.

ABS CODES

Code No. Malfunctioning Part Reference Page
12 Self-diagnosis could not detect any malfunctions.
45 Actuator front left outlet solenoid valve
46 Actuator front left inlet solenoid valve
41 Actuator front right outlet solenoid valve
42 Actuator front right inlet solenoid valve
51 Actuator rear right outlet solenoid valve
52 Actuator rear right inlet solenoid valve
55 Actuator rear left outlet solenoid valve
56 Actuator rear left inlet solenoid valve
25 *1 Front left sensor (open-circuit)
26 *1 Front left sensor (short-circuit)
21 *1 Front right sensor (open-circuit)
22 *1 Front right sensor (short-circuit)
31 *1 Rear right sensor (open-circuit)
32 *1 Rear right sensor (short-circuit)
35 *1 Rear left sensor (open-circuit)
36 *1 Rear left sensor (short-circuit)
18 *1 Sensor rotor
61 *3 Actuator motor or motor relay
63 Solenoid valve relay
57 *2 Power supply (Low voltage)
71 Control unit  <--------- $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

Technical bulletin - VDC OFF and SLIP lights come on after ignition

Came across a 2010 bulletin that describes the VDC OFF and SLIP light diagnosis process. This sheds some more light on the process of diagnosing  at the dealership once they use the Consult III and pull the ECU codes:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Reference: NTB10-145
Date: December 15, 2010
ABS / VDC CAN DIAGNOSIS INFORMATION
APPLIED VEHICLES: All 2005-2011 Nissan vehicles with ABS and/or VDC
SERVICE INFORMATION
When diagnosing a vehicle with an ABS or VDC / SLIP warning light on with DTCs stored in the ABS / VDC actuator control unit, perform DTC diagnosis first.

^

Do not replace the ABS / VDC actuator control unit without being supported by the DTC diagnosis. ^ Do not erase DTCs before performing DTC diagnosis. ^ Always fully diagnose before performing any repairs. When DTC U1000 (CAN COMM CIRCUIT) is the only DTC stored in the ABS / VDC actuator control unit, use the REPAIR FLOW CHART below. This will assist in proper diagnosis results and repairs in addition to using diagnostic information in the Electronic Service Manual (ESM). --------------------------------------------

So, where does that us? Well two things:

1) If its a serious issue, the dealership will want to replace the "VDC actuator control unit".  Average cost - somewhere from $1000 - $2000.

2) if I can get my hands on a coy of the ESM (ELectronic Service Manual) I can double check that the dealership isnt' BS'ing me on the fix (i have had this happen to me before when I had the minor evap leak, that the mechanic gave me a bunch of tests that were designed to punish my wallet. Plus, knowledge never hurts!)

VDC OFF and SLIP lights come on simultaneously on ignition

Following on from the previous post, here is an exact description of the symptom:

Symptoms:
____________________________________________________

1) ignition on
2) switch to a non-park gear (in my case, REVERSE)
3) let go of brake , car starts moving slowly
4) there is a whirring sound from the engine compartment, and then ....
4) the the VDC OFF and SLIP lights both came on simultaneously


Here are the two lights in concern, that come on together on the dash:

Do I need to panic?
____________________________________________________
The car will remain driveable. So theres no need for immediate panic, ...

UNLESS you're driving in curvy rainy or snowy conditions. The VDC is "designed to help correct power from the engines and wheel braking to help your car go in the direction that you're steering it". In other words, it helps keep the car in your control. Most of the time with dry roads and if you play it at safe speeds, driving conservatively and without high speed turns or sudden changes in direction, you're safe.

Diagnosis:
____________________________________________________

Let's see what the Nissan rogue manual has to say about this symptom:

"When the VDC off indicator light and slip indicator light illuminate with the VDC system turned on, this light alerts the driver to the fact that the VDC system's fail-safe mode is operating"

 That doesn't sound good! Ok but what about that whirring sound right before the light came on? Lets take a second look at the manual:

"The computer has a built-in diagnostic feature that tests the system each time you start the engine and move the vehicle forward or in reverse at a slow speed. When the self-test occurs, you may hear a “clunk” noise and/or feela pulsation in the brake pedal. This is normal and is not an indication of a malfunction."



There we go, my Nissan Rogue is experiencing a diagnostic failure or fault on ignition and initial movement, and is shutting down the VDC (the whirring sound) and signalling to me that i need to get the VDC or its components checked (the SLIP and VDC OFF lights together).



The Fix:
____________________________________________________

The bad news first: I haven't found and fixed the problem yet.
The good news: Theres lots of possibilities which look like cheap fixes that might be wrong, and I have not taken the car to a Nissan dealership yet where they have the tools to figure out exactly what is causing the VDC test to fail. I am leaving that as the last option.

 What are some things people have done to fix this without pulling out diagnostic codes from the Rogue?

Ok let's take a look at what people out there have had success with in fixing this problem, which I have tried in succession to try and eliminate some simple possibilities:

1) Brake fluid is low:

The number one reason people seem to experience the VDC OFF and SLIP lights together is when their brake fluid levels are low. Hey wait a minute, I had this before! In that situation, top off the brake fluid to the MAX level, and then try your ignition and move the car again.

If this solved your problem, you should think about why your brake fluid was low. The brake reservoir and fluid system is self-contained, theres no place for the brake fluid to run off or get "used up". So if the brake fluid is low, this means that some of it went somewhere it wasnt supposed to.  Possibilites are:

-Theres a leak in the brake fluid system. Press down fully on your brake when parked, and then examine the bottom of the car to see if you've "sprung a leak". Could be that something somewhere is perforated or needs repair where the brake fluid is leaking.
I checked the Rogue, there were no leaks.. so...

OR
-Brake pads or rotors are worn out. Turns out with worn out brakes, the brake piston which is fluid driven will move to compensate. This physically creates more space for the brake to fill up, which means you would see a lower level at the brake reservoir. You should probably have your brakes checked and replaced.

SINCE my brake fluid was low, I had my brakes checked out, turns out my rear brake pads and rotors were shot. I had both replaced.... but... still no luck with the VDC OFF and SLIP lights.


2) Problem with electrical circuitry - ie the Brake Lights in the back:

If your brake light is out or the circuitry is messed up and its malfunctioning, you should get that looked at, and the switch cleaned. I don't have this issue.


3) Sensors that feed the VDC self diagnostic are worn out / not connected well / cannot do their job right :

Unfortunately, theres no easy way to detect this one myself.



 What stuff would the Nissan dealership do / can I just take it to some other mechanic?:

There is one basic problem with this VDC OFF and SLIP dignostic failure light condition - you can't pull VDC error codes out yourself using the generic scanners available on the market! You need a Nissan tool called the Consult III, along with (maybe) a proprietary connector, that can read the Nissan-custom codes off of the ECU (engine control unit), as this is specific to Nissan technology (VDC).

This was news to me, because I used to think you could pull all error codes! Because you don't expect any better, let me just confirm what you're already thinking - this tool is too expensive for the average joe, and the easiest place to get to this tool is ... at a Nissan dealership.

Let's say you go to a dealership and find out whats going on with the VDC during diagnostic failure. Theres one of two possible scenarios from this point onwards:

1) A sensor reading shows a problem. 

This might be alright, maybe its the sensor itself thats screwed up, in which case either a fix or a replacment might get you back on your feet and out the door....

2) Failure somewhere else within the VDC system

I will update this blog if I find out more about this. But at this point you're probably looking at an expensive repair.   

What makes this issue worse is that if you were to go to an unreliable mechanic, you might run into a PARTS CHANGER ie a mechanic whose first go-to is to recommend guesswork replacement and labor, instead of enough diagnostic to figure out exactly what the problem is. This is why I'm trying to avoid this option as long as I can, I simply don't know of any reliable mechanic worth his salt here yet.
 

... this will be continued once I head over to some place that has a Nissan Consult scanner. I'll keep you posted if I end up having to go directly to a Nissan dealer or elsewhere! Feel free to post comments if youve had this issue and have found a way to read the codes off.

Low Brake fluid level in the Brake Fluid Reservoir

Theres no such thing as a free meal. Well If you wondered why this blog didnt have any updates, don't worry  - Im about to start making more entries - which in my case is not necessarily a good thing !

I noticed the other day that my brake fluid level was a little on the low end in the reservoir.  There are  MAX and MIN lines in the brake fluid reservoir, , so if you see the fluid hitting the MIN line, its recommended that you top it off. Here's what the reservoir looks like (not my own picture)

Now brake fluid is toxic, so its recommended that you wear gloves or something protective when handling the fluid. For Nissan Rogue, you should grab a DOT-3 heavy duty brake fluid. I bought a "Nissan genuine" DOT -3 heavy duty brake fluid off of amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AKYOOTO/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Now here's where I state something that I still don't understand. The car engine compartment is a deep area. You can drop things in it and its hard to retrieve it because its compact and filled with tubes and other mechanical parts. So why don't car manufacturers create caps which lanyards that attach to the containers they fit on?

Anyways i guess you can see where this is going. I took the cap off, filled up the brak fluid to the MAX line, and i was handling the cap with a heavy glove (i dont have any decent ones)...and BAM. the cap fell right into the engine compartment.

Now have a look at this picture. Does it seem like someone with large forearms could get their hand through to the bottom of that and pick up a small cap?

So i fiddled around with a hanger for a bit, failed, and then i stuck my hand down behind the brake reservoir (located top right in this picture in white)...and somehow pulled out the cap. I was sweatin bullets there for a bit though, cos for a second i thought i wouldnt be able to drive around at all!

So that was that, my brake refilling experience. Lessons:

1) get a good glove
2) Get Nissan DOT-3 heavy duty brake fluid or something similar
3) Try not to drop the reservoir cap cos picking it back up is a real pain in the ass
4) makes me feel iffy about the other caps and whether i should get something to tie those down so even if i take them off, they'll just hang and wont drop down.

So then I started the engine to see how we were doing .. all seemed fine. Then i put the car into Reverse and lifted my foot off the brake.. ...and lo and behold... the damn VDC OFF and SLIP lights came on:

Another blog post about that issue.